At Onda, Cámara and Koslow always had the final say, but they assembled a team of rising stars — Koslow flew to Minneapolis to recruit general manager Erin Rolek after a wine industry friend said Rolek was the best somm in America — and empowered them to help shape what Onda would be. The morning after the August tasting, Koslow and Orozco took Cámara and Villegas to the Santa Monica farmers market for the first time. Gabriela Cámara is a Mexican chef, restaurant owner, and author. Beginning with her now 20-year-old restaurant Contramar, Cámara has transfigured Mexico City’s restaurant world. In this anxious, potentially revolutionary moment in culture, many chefs are navigating rough waters of worn-out ideas (fusion), oppressive expectations (authenticity), and toxic cultural practices (appropriation). “Last week there was no roe or jicama. "You need less of good food to feel very satisfied in terms of eating," she says. Cala's waitstaff doesn't always get it right, she says, but she believes that the service is generally kind. Balo Orozco, the restaurant’s chef de cuisine, who had prepared every dish, didn’t pause to savor his success. The turning point came with a meal -- her first -- at the famed Chez Panisse when she 17. by Meghan McCarron Nov … Orozco put out yet another variation of chips and dip — this time without the nutritional yeast that had been dusted on the chips in previous versions — and the tasting kicked back to life. Both Koslow and Cámara say Onda, which opened to great fanfare on October 28 on the grounds of the Proper Hotel, a high-fashion beige pleasure compound where rooms start at $450 a night, is a conversation between Los Angeles and Mexico City. She rattled off the names of farmers who would have certain herbs later in the fall; Villegas marveled over the strangeness of Southern California seasons — how can you have butternut squash and lemons at the same time? Koslow hunched over a computer at the bar, helping finalize a kids menu, and then ceaselessly moved throughout the restaurant, tasting dishes, eavesdropping on servers, and chatting with guests. Koslow warmly greeted a group that included the actress Alia Shawkat, who she calls “an OG Sqirl regular”; the Bay Area restaurateurs bemoaned the future of the independent restaurant in ever-more-expensive cities and cut into the inside-out quesadilla. "I did see an area of opportunity making the food that I was making at Contramar," she says. But she did think the masa should be thicker, and fried hotter. “What [Cámara] did in Contramar was create an anchor in Mexico City that combined the casual fare of a prototypical Guerrero vacation on the beach with the extravagant, sumptuous, casual leisure of a long Mexico City lunch,” says Daniel Hernandez, a journalist and author of the memoir Down and Delirious in Mexico City. They fished together twice a week to supply the restaurant. Yet she had always been curious about hospitality and enjoyed good food and cooking for others. But before rushing to open Cala in 2015, Cámara researched San Francisco's Mexican food scene. "The food scene in San Francisco was something I had always really respected and the possibility of cooking with the ingredients you can find here," she says. Cámara’s creativity is found in the space that opens up between traditions, but is always underpinned by technical precision. Today, at the Mexican seafood eatery in Hayes Valley, she's making her version of a ceviche with squid, onion and satsuma, a citrus variety prized for its sweetness. Both factors were key. “If you know about tortillas, it’s like, for a French person to think that any baguette is fine. “And Jessica, it’s crazy in your mouth, but [it] makes sense. The tasting moved on from the problem of guacamole to the problem of sweet potatoes, fried cheese, kelp. Can their first partnership, Onda, do the same? “Contramar is a Mexican restaurant, but the category [in Mexico] isn’t ‘Mexican restaurant,’ it is ‘seafood restaurant.’ But then, here in California, Cála is a Mexican seafood restaurant.” She says her time living in California made her revisit her Mexicanness in a new way. She says that she received numerous offers to open versions of Contramar in the United States but didn't consider any until her son was 4 years old. San Francisco (CNN) — Renowned Mexican chef Gabriela Cámara has never been shy about her love for using local and seasonal ingredients in … She has opened eleven restaurants including Contramar in Mexico City, which she opened at the age of 23 with no professional experience working in or running restaurants. Regardez sur Netflix. Throughout the process of Onda, she swung between handling nitty-gritty details of uniforms, hiring, and plate size and also identifying the twist, or the swerve that a dish could take to become memorable. "There's a really long tradition of prideful women that have had amazing careers and been very influential for the way this city has been eating," she says. Orozco had worked at Sqirl as the restaurant’s catering chef, but eager to get back on the line, he went to work for Cámara at her San Francisco restaurant, Cála. In 1998, Cámara opened Contramar in Mexico City, a restaurant specializing in seafood. Koslow says the menu at Onda was built around which dishes could be served with good, well-made tortillas, and which could incorporate other types of masa, keeping things tight. And should there be parsley in the filling for color? To say she is driven and tenacious is like saying water is wet. Two fried cheeses wrapped around tortillas were tried side by side as prototypes for the inside-out quesadilla, but neither worked well. “We’re trying to figure out guacamole right now,” Koslow said. At the August tasting, as Cámara flipped some on the plancha, it came up again. Okay, how are we going to make this not dry? One of the toughest dishes to develop was a riff on a fritto misto, which included kelp battered in masa. Orozco came into the storage room and pulled out a 22-quart bus tub of corn that had soaked all day. As a little girl, Cámara learned to make tortillas from women in her hometown of Tepoztlán, and held herself to high standards making them ever since. Service was winding down; Cámara was still holding court, and Koslow was going home for the first time in days to sleep in her own bed. She reached out to Cámara, a chef she admired but had never discussed collaborating with, and to Koslow’s shock, she jumped right in. Koslow and Cámara hoped their conversation could wend around these many traps, and produce something meaningful and new. Gabriela Cámara and Jessica Koslow each have restaurants that ended up defining a city. Though the squid, available year-round in the Bay Area, is a staple in the dish, the other ingredients aren't. I don't want to be a chef on a cruise ship or in a five-star hotel in Monaco, or like, that was my idea,' " says Cámara. Koslow and Cámara’s collaboration at Onda, which I observed over several months of interviews and tastings, was a meeting of two relentlessly perfectionist and ambitious chefs who also know a great deal about how to create restaurants that appeal to people who aren’t chefs or gourmands — a surprisingly rare quality in the conference-trotting eschalon of the food world (Cámara and Koslow met at René Redzepi’s MAD Symposium). “Often I think as food writers and critics we can bemoan [that] vibe. The cooks were cleaning down their stations, but Orozco wasn’t done yet: He had to boil the corn for the masa the following day. Cámara partly attributes its success to San Francisco's track record of embracing women chefs such as Cecilia Chiang, Dominique Crenn and Tanya Holland. Could you do Meyer lemon in a quesadilla? In the process, she and her restaurant have shouldered a nearly oppressive amount of symbolic weight in conversations about how a new generation of restaurants defines a changing Los Angeles. Špičková restauratérka z Mexico City Gabriela Cámara otevírá sesterskou jídelnu Cala v San Francisku, s podobným menu a nezvykle přívětivou stravovací kulturou. Without Cámara there, Koslow pressed Orozco for his takes, but she also seemed to ask Onda itself what it was, or wanted to be, when she wondered aloud, What is Onda? On the last night of friends and family, a Sunday, the octopus dish was on the menu. So to me it’s like, ‘Why not use everything I’ve learned?’” Orozco says. “The fact that I am Mexican and can connect to the farmers and the people who do all the hard work in California has been super relevant.”. Five years after she moved to the United States from her native Mexico, she is at the tipping point of world culinary fame. Text by Shivani Vora; video by Alice Yu, CNN. The crab tetela, served as two blond corn tortillas folded into a snug triangle with crisp corners, had a mild, cheesy richness like a crab rangoon, but how big should it be? "Service in Mexico is extraordinary. Tyhle údaje pak analyzujeme a využíváme je k přizpůsobení našich služeb a online reklamy podle vašich potřeb. Orozco wouldn’t call the food he cooks at Onda Mexican, exactly, because it’s not traditional, and he’s using ingredients and techniques pulled from a riot of culinary influences. Throughout the tasting, he took in each high-minded, hyper-specific critique, waiting for the two chefs to deliver a unified note, which they always did: Try the parsley. Gathering around the tortilla press made the group a little giddy, even as they debated whether the masa balls should be 10, 15, or 20 grams. by Meghan McCarron Nov … Koslow wondered about combining the blue and white corn masas in a single tortilla to create a tie-dye effect (it was later ruled too complicated). "I always thought, 'No, I don't. In what seems like a flash, she's showing off the corn that makes its way onto Cala's menu time and time again. SAN FRANCISCO — Gabriela Cámara is having a very good year. Koslow directed Cámara away from very pricey strawberries, toward a display of mirabelle plums, and introduced her to the “fruit detective” David Karp. Cámara wondered if there should be more pickled celtuce; Koslow suggested even more greens. I was studying to do that," she says. Renowned Mexican chef Gabriela Cámara has never been shy about her love for using local and seasonal ingredients in her cooking, but visiting her at her San Francisco restaurant Cala brings her passion to life in the most engaging -- and tasty -- way. In addition, she had access to an abundance of locally grown produce. When Onda was conceived, Cámara was living in San Francisco, an easy flight away; she hoped she would see her brother, who lives in Venice, more often. Every dish that day was assessed like an engineering problem, its strengths tested and weaknesses scrutinized, in the hopes of producing food that diners would consume with nary an analytical thought at all. „Příběh dvou kuchyní“ vznikl v produkci herce Gaela García Bernala („Motocyklové deníky“, „Mozart in the Jungle“). Chef, restaurateur and cookbook author Gabriela Cámara is the talented soul behind Mexico City staple Contramar.
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